02/06/98 - 1580

Srila Narayana Maharaja in Bali

Bali (VNN) - by Sridama Sakha das

Srila Maharaja arrived in Bali on 24th January. About half of the touring party were already there, having arrived a couple of days previously. Since we did not want to rile the Muslim government by performing loud kirtana at Denpasar airport, we saved our reception for the house where Srila Maharaja was going to be staying, that of Ananta Krsna prabhu, and his wife Rangavati didi. They have five daughters, one of whom is married to Gokul Prabhu, who also lives there with them while in Bali. Gokul's wife's name is Anupama dasi. They both helped to make many of the arrangements for Srila Maharaja's trip to Bali.

The house is quite large, and was very tastefully decorated in traditional Balinese style for Srila Maharaja's arrival. A foot bathing ceremony was performed as soon as he reached there, accompanied by the guru vandana prayers. Many of the local devotees became emotionally overwhelmed to be with him once again.

After kirtana, Srila Maharaja spoke for a short while. He told the devotees how happy he was to come and see his "old friends", the disciples of Srila Gour Govinda Maharaja. He told them how much he appreciated Bali's rich culture, which was reminding him of India at every turn. He praised the gigantic, magnificent statues he had seen dotted around the city, which graphically depict scenes from the Mahabharat. He also noted the many beautiful carvings of demigods which he had seen, so reminiscent of India. Laughingly, he talked with enthusiasm about the paddy fields outside, saying how much they reminded him of Bengal, Caitanya Mahaprabhu's birthplace. He told the devotees how he appreciated their sweet singing, and the "swagatam" (welcome) they had given him. Talking of Bali, which has many breathtaking statues of Garuda throughout, he said that he thought that in ancient times kings of Orissa must have gone there, and that there had been connection between the two countries. He praised Garuda, who is the most prominent servant of Lord Visnu, saying that he thought Garuda must also have been living there once. In connection with Garuda, he told the story of Saubhari Muni, who had cursed Garuda for catching fish in the lake where he was meditating. Because of this offence, Saubhari Muni fell down from his austerities, and entered grhastha life for 10,000 years, marrying fifty princesses. Later, he became a Vaisnava and eventually attained Vaikuntha. Srila Maharaja then cautioned everyone not to offend any Vaisnava.

When Srila Maharaja had finished talking, our hosts gave him a huge fresh coconut, which he appreciatively drank with a straw. Coconuts were then served to everyone else too.

Shortly after this, three of the devotees from Srila Maharaja's touring group left to attend a public preaching programme. Two of the devotees were disciples of Sri Srimad Gour Govinda Svami and were very eager to meet with their godbrothers. The programme was being held in the garden of the house of a local devotee.

There were about 150 devotees there, and when my godbrothers arrived, H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja was sitting on a vyasasana on a raised platform, under a pagoda type structure. The class had already begun.

Speaking on the subject of preaching activities, H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja stated that merely by preaching one can attain the very highest perfection. He referred to the statement of Srila Rupa Gosvami, who has said that the essence of all advice is to chant and remember the pastimes of Sri Sri Radha-Krsna, and always to reside at Radha Kund. However, H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja said, we must understand that Caitanya Mahaprabhu is non-different from Radha-Krsna and His pastime is to preach Krsna consciousness. Therefore, by preaching we can attain the same result which is attained by remembering the pastimes of Sri Sri Radha and Krsna, namely the stages of bhava and prema.

Of course, this kind of statement, though commonly heard nowadays, is not supported by the sastra. Such misconceptions constitute the anartha known as sadhya sadhana bhrama. It is a great obstacle which may obstruct our progress to the madhyama platform for many years, or even lifetimes, if we do not avail ourselves of the guidance of a self realized soul. It is not our intention herein to create controversy, but rather to dispel it, for the sake of all sincerely aspiring sadhakas. The essence of all advice has been given by Srila Rupa Gosvami and clarified by the commentaries of our acaryas. Here is the verse under question:

tan-nama-rupa-caritadi-sukirtananu-
   smrtyoh kramena rasana-manasi niyojya
tisthan vraje tad-anuragi jananugami
   kalam nayed akhilam ity upadesa-saram

The essence of all advice is that one should utilize one's full time--twenty-four hours a day--in nicely chanting and remembering the Lord's divine name, transcendental form, qualities and eternal pastimes, thereby gradually engaging one's tongue and mind. In this way one should reside in Vraja [Goloka Vrndavana dhama] and serve Krsna under the guidance of devotees. One should follow in the footsteps of the Lord's beloved devotees, who are deeply attached to His devotional service. (Nectar of Instruction: Text Eight)

Shortly after, the class came to a close, and H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja asked for questions.

From the back of the assembly, one of my godbrothers raised his hand, and asked:

"Great acaryas in our line such as Srila Bhaktivinode Thakura, Srila Visvanath Cakravarti Thakura, Srila Jiva Gosvami and Srila Rupa Gosvami have all meticulously described the specific type of sadhana for attaining bhava. Not one of them have said that bhava is achieved by preaching. Since this is your claim, can you please substantiate it with appropriate references from the scriptures?"

H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja then asked him to repeat the question slowly for the sake of the Balinese translator, Sundarananda prabhu. My godbrother went forward, climbed the raised platform, and, sat at the foot of H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja's vyasasana. There, he repeated the question over the microphone, while Sundaranandana prabhu, a local devotee, translated it word for word.

H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja replied:

"This is stated all over the scriptures! ...for example -- krsna varnam tvisakrsnam, sango pangastra parsadam, yajnaih sankirtana prayair yajanti hi sumedhasah. 'In the age of Kali, intelligent persons perform congregational chanting to worship the incarnation of Godhead who constantly sings the name of Krsna. Although His complexion is not blackish, He is Krsna Himself. He is accompanied by His associates, servants, weapons and confidential companions.' The followers of Caitanya Mahaprabhu preach the chanting of the Holy Names and by this they attain perfection, because it is the yuga dharma. And this is the mood of Srila Prabhupada!"

My godbrother then replied:

"Yes. It is undoubtedly true that by serving in the preaching mission, we may attract Caitanya Mahaprabhu's mercy. But what is that mercy? In Caitanya Caritamrta, Srila Krsna das Kaviraja Gosvami states that the mercy of Gaura-Nitai illuminates the heart, enabling one to meet the rasika vaisnava: Then, dui bhagavata dvara diya bhakti-rasa tanhara hrdaye tanra preme haya vasa. (Adi 1.100) Then, by hearing Krsna's pastimes from such rasika Vaisnavas one attains bhava and prema..."

Interrupting, H.H. Bhakti Raghava Maharaja interjected:

"Srila Prabhupada never said that we have to hear from a rasika vaisnava! Srila Prabhupada just told us that 'preaching is the essence, books are the basis, utility is the principle, and purity is the force.'"

However, contrary to popular belief, Srila Prabhupada never actually said these four slogans, which have grown to the stature of scriptural evidence in the minds of the misinformed. Their origin can be traced to an obscure Chinese character scroll (author unknown) as evidenced by the following conversation, Evening Darshan, Mayapur, February 25, 1977:

Trivikrama: He has brought you one Chinese script.
Hari-sauri: What does it say?
Devotee (3): This is Chinese character scroll. It says, "Books are the basis, preaching is the essence, utility is the principle, and purity is the force." It was translated wholly by myself, and the characters were written by...
Prabhupada: Is that all right?
Devotee (5): I can read, but I don't write. Ah... That's not purity. It should be... It's not so exact.
Prabhupada: What did he say in the trans...?
Devotee (5): It's cleanliness rather than purity.
Bali-mardana: He has translated purity as "cleanliness," not quite exact.

When my godbrother raised his hand, and attempted to ask a question, three men in devotee dress suddenly thrust their way through the crowd, ascended the raised platform, and forcefully seized my godbrother, beginning to drag him away. However, one of the devotees present managed to stop them just in time.

Shortly after the class, Gokul prabhu had been talking with his godbrother and friend, Sundarananda prabhu, when one of the men who had tried to manhandle my other godbrother, suddenly came forward. Pushing Gokul prabhu violently, he then swung at him with his fist. Gokul prabhu, who was standing right on the edge of the veranda, then jumped off it into the garden, in order to avoid the blow. A large crowd of devotees quickly gathered around him, whereupon he offered his obeisances to all of them, thus indicating his pacifist mood. Immediately, all the devotees returned them. Just as my other godbrother appeared on the scene from Bhakti Raghava Maharaja's room, they all began to offer their obeisances to him as well, which he returned. Emerging from the crowd, the owner of the house approached him and Gokul prabhu, and very apologetically and gently asked if they could leave, lest the situation escalate to further violence. Following them to the gate, he then offered his obeisances to them again before they left.

The next morning, just after his walk, Srila Maharaja gave a short darsan. Gokul prabhu asked him:

"Some people heard you speak here yesterday, but upon hearing words like 'gopi' and 'rasika' they became uneasy. The ISKCON leaders have taught them to fear using or even hearing these words."

Shaking his head slowly, Srila Maharaja replied:

"Sastra has never said that you should not approach an advanced Vaisnava, and hear the pastimes of Hari from him. They can dishonour their Gurudeva in this way by preaching against exalted souls. They can bring him pain, disobey him, or they can poison him. But we can never do this."

Gokul prabhu then asked another question.

"Some people have criticised you for allowing a female devotee to translate your classes, and also for allowing them to touch your feet."

Srila Maharaja replied:

"Yes, they should be somewhat distant from any sannyasi. But in our parampara there are many great Vaisnavis who have been accepted by our acaryas such as Ganga devi and Jahnava. What can I do? Sincerely these ladies are coming to hear from me, I must help them."

Then, talking of his ISKCON detractors, he added:

"They fear me. Because I can honour even an ant, a dog, or a hog, seeing Krsna everywhere."

A little later, the devotees there were joking around with each other, and Srila Maharaja joined in with their light hearted bantering. However, it could be seen that amidst the jesting, he always maintained a deep gravity, which no-one could quite fathom. Becoming aware of this, Vrnda didi felt prompted to ask:

"I have heard that Raghunath das Gosvami never used to laugh. Is that true?"

Becoming very concerned, his eyes narrowing somewhat, Srila Maharaja said sharply:

"Who told you? This is opposite to the teachings of our Acaryas. You should not read any unauthorized books, only those of our Gosvamis. Sometimes when seeing the pastimes of Krsna, Raghunath das Gosvami would cry. But at other times, for instance when he would hear of how Krsna was insulted by the gopis, he would laugh as well. Seeing the pastimes between Krsna and Madhumangala he would also laugh so much. Actually, even by hearing the name of Madhumangala, you cannot avoid to laugh. When Raghunath das Gosvami would meet with Rupa Gosvami he would both cry and laugh. Certainly he was laughing sometimes. You should know that if you cry for Krsna, then you must surely laugh for Krsna too. And if you do not laugh, then you will go mad."

Later that day, Srila Maharaja opened class by asking Urukrama prabhu to give the meaning of a sloka from the Upanisads. He then asked Anupama didi to translate what he was saying, for the benefit of the non-English speaking local devotees. Urukrama prabhu then explained that the human form is meant for spiritual life, and must not be wasted. Also, spiritual life is like a razor's edge. Srila Maharaja added that if you do not follow attentively, then you will surely be cut.

Srila Maharaja went on to explain that although spiritual life is like a razor's edge, still, in Srimad Bhagavatam, it is stated that one can close one's eyes and run, and one will not fall down. How so? By accepting a bonafide guru. But if we try to advance by our own efforts alone, we will surely fall down.

If we are very fortunate, Krsna will send such a bonafide guru to us. Crying out, our guru will say: "Wake up! Wake up! You have been sleeping for thousands of births, since the beginning of creation."

He only wants our ears, not any other organ of the body. Only the ears are capable of receiving transcendental sound vibration. But if we do not hear, then we will get cut by so many razors, and undergo much misery.

Although the disciple may not feel qualified to succeed in spiritual life, his Guru will tell him not to fear. Krsna is so unlimitedly powerful, sarva saktiman, we have only to follow this path, and He will take care of everything. The path is very crooked, and difficult to follow, but it is also easy too, for one who is determined. Otherwise, we may suffer the same fate as Bharata Maharaja.

When the mother deer had miscarried her fawn, with imploring eyes she said to Bharata Maharaja: "Please, take care of my baby." So in this way, Bharata Maharaja gradually gave up his spiritual path, and became utterly attached to the baby deer. Whenever he attempted to do bhajan, the baby deer would come up and affectionately nuzzle him, wanting to be taken on his lap. At the end of his life, still thinking of that deer, Bharata Maharaja took the body of a deer in his next life. So we must be so careful. While chanting, we must not think of anything else other than Hari, Guru or Vaisnava.

At this point, Anupama didi had to attend to the needs of her eight month old little boy, so Srila Maharaja asked Prema Manjari, the wife of Sundarananda prabhu to continue. But she was very reticent, saying:

"O Maharaja, I have no qualification."

Srila Maharaja answered:

"I don't want. I just want that you repeat my words."

Immediately, devotees in the assembly began to glorify her qualities, while Srila Maharaja continued to coax her.

"I want you to help me. I will make you perfect."

Not really having any opportunity to back out now, Prema Manjari laughingly came forward, and the class continued.

Narada Muni is never touched by maya, Srila Maharaja said, but he played the part of a nitya baddha for our instruction. While once doing meditation, some beautiful apsaras from the heavenly planets came down to his asrama in an attempt to seduce him. However, Narada was so absorbed in spiritual consciousness that he was quite unaffected. Although they had tried to make him fall down, he did not curse them, but, smiling, merely told them to leave. However, after they had gone, Narada Muni began to feel very proud of himself. Becoming overwhelmed with false ego, he approached his father, and proudly declared that he had overcome lust. Although congratulating him, his father anxiously warned him to keep this to himself, and not to tell his Guru, Sankara, or Lord Visnu. However, not heeding this advice, Narada Muni next approached Sankara, and told him the same thing. After praising him warmly, Sankara cautioned him against telling this to Visnu. But Narada, blinded by pride, at once approached the Lord. Glorifying Him, he declared:

"O omniscient Lord, by Your mercy I have overcome lust!"

Although outwardly appearing pleased with him, Lord Visnu could see the disease that had come in Narada Muni's heart, and knew that if left unchecked it would spread throughout his whole body and kill him. Therefore, to save him, He created an illusory world. Within that world there was a king with an incomparably beautiful daughter, whom he wanted to marry off. By the Lord's arrangement, Narada met the king, who told him that he could also compete for her hand in marriage, but that he was leaving the ultimate choice of husband in her hands. Upon seeing her, Narada Muni fell completely in love with her. However, he knew that she would never consider him. So he immediately went to Lord Visnu, saying:

"O Lord, I have never asked you for anything. But now I have an urgent request. Please make me as beautiful as Yourself!"

Smiling affectionately, the Lord answered:

"Yes, I must certainly act for your welfare. I will surely help you."

Having received the Lord's blessings, Narada Muni left and went to the princess, feeling sure that she would not be able to resist him now. However, upon arriving, he was surprised that the princess seemed not even to notice him. She even appeared faintly disgusted by his presence. Although he walked very closely to her, and indicated by his facial expressions that he was the best choice of partner that she could possibly make, it was all to no avail. Meanwhile, two of Narada's godbrothers continually praised him sarcastically, saying that there was no-one in the world so beautiful and irresistible as him. However, Narada Muni was so blinded by lust, that he did not at all realise that they were only mocking him. He had completely forgotten Visnu, and was sunk in lust. This is the situation of all conditioned souls in this world. One controlled by lust becomes bereft of all intelligence and discrimination, just as Narada was. In that condition, we criticise many Vaisnavas, and think that we are so qualified. So we must be very careful. While Narada Muni was trying so hard to woo the princess, suddenly Lord Visnu arrived on the back of Garuda. As soon as the beautiful princess set eyes on the Lord, she knew that He was the person she wanted as her husband. She put her garland on Him, Who, smiling, took her onto His lap, and at once flew off with her.

Narada could not believe his eyes. His worshipable Lord, in Whom he had given his implicit trust, had now insulted and cheated him. Then, seeing his reflection in some water, he recoiled in horror to see the face of a monkey staring back at him. Furiously, Narada went and confronted Lord Visnu, and proceeded to curse Him and the princess.

"Although I have had to suffer separation from my beloved for only one hour, I curse You to take birth on the earth, where you will be forced to suffer separation from the princess for one year!"

Then Lord Visnu lifted the veil of Yogamaya, and Narada realised the real situation. The princess was none other than Laksmi devi herself. Repenting most wretchedly, he cried out:

"O Lord! I was in such an illusion, but you were only trying to help me. I have committed such aparadha against You."

However, the Lord was overjoyed to have His devotee back, and answered:

"I am very happy to undergo the effects of your curse. As Sita and Rama, Laksmi and I will advent on the planet earth, and by hearing the heart-rending story of our tribulations and pastimes, people will very easily attain Vaikuntha."

The Lord went on to explain that the material world is such a dangerous place, that one may very easily be derailed at any time, and that we must therefore be very careful. After this, Narada went to the material world, and sang the glories of Sita and Rama everywhere.

At this point, Srila Maharaja drew the class to a close, and then thanked and praised Prema Manjari didi for her expert translations and confident attempt. He told her:

"You are not any less than Sundarananda. We are feeling his separation, but you are making up for it."

The next day, Monday 26th January, Srila Maharaja told the story in the evening class of how Krsna and Baladeva killed the demonic asses at Talavan. On the day it happened, the mothers of all the cowherd boys had thought that their sons would all go to Bhandirvan forest, and therefore sent their prepared lunches there. However, it just so happened that the cowherd boys had gone to Madhuvana instead that day. As midday approached, all of the gopas began to feel hungry, and asked Kanhaiya and Baladeva, the killers of demons, to kill the demon of hunger now afflicting them. Nearby was the Talavan forest, and the scent of the ripened tala fruits growing there increased their hunger. However, the forest was heavily policed by Kamsa's henchmen, demons who had taken the form of asses, and was strictly out of limits to all the Vrajabasis.

It was here, Srila Maharaja suggested, that visas and passports had originated.

With Baladeva at their head, Krsna and all the gopas set off for Talavana. The leader of the donkeys, Dhenukasura was there, with all his companions and their hundreds and thousands of wives and children. Their "sweet voices" rang out all over the forest. Srila Maharaja then asked the Balinese devotees whether they had donkeys on their island. When they said that they didn't, Srila Maharaja said: "you are so lucky!" and they all laughed. Srila Maharaja then described how Krsna and Baladeva then began to vanquish all of the asses, Baladeva killing Dhenukasura. Grasping them by their hind legs, and swinging them around violently, They cast the donkeys onto the tops of the palm trees. By the force of their weight, the trees began to tumble down like dominoes, and very soon the forest earth was covered with blood and donkey stool-spattered fruits, fallen trees, deceased donkeys and rivers of their spilled blood. Whichever of the donkeys were left immediately fled in terror, to bear news of their defeat to their master, Kamsa.

Baladeva is Akhanda Guru Tattva, and the bonafide guru is a manifestation of Him and Lord Nityananda. So here Baladeva is acting as guru, destroying Dhenukasura, who is the embodiment of ignorance. If we surrender to Guru, then he will help us to become free from its influence. Ignorance is the speciality of the ass. He has no common sense, or sense of discrimination. When the weather is very dry, and there is hardly any grass anywhere, he becomes very fat. And when the rainy season comes, and there is lush grass growing everywhere, he becomes lean and thin. Why? Because in the dry weather, seeing no grass anywhere, he thinks: "Oh, I must have eaten it all!" Conversely, in the rainy season, after having eaten, still seeing grass and foliage everywhere, he thinks: "I've eaten practically nothing!"

The foolish male donkey will stubbornly pursue the female donkey, even though she continually kicks him in the face with her hind legs. Similarly, like the donkey, a person in ignorance is always being kicked by maya, having no taste to perform Krsna seva.

Donkeys are used to carry loads of dirty laundry down to the river to be washed. However, they never get to wear any of these fine clothes. They are also used to transport foodstuffs like ghee, rice and sugar in hilly terrain, where vehicles are unable to go. Still, the donkeys never get to taste any of their delicious burden. The Guru removes donkey-like ignorance, and makes a platform from which one can perform devotional service. People leave their homes and lives to endeavour for spiritual perfection, but unfortunately they have no idea of what a bonafide Vaisnava is, or where to get his association. sadhu sanga sadhu sanga sarva sastre kaya, lava matra sadhu sange sarva siddhi haya. By his exalted association, one can be changed in a moment, forever. In thousands of places Srila Prabhupada has urged us to seek out the high association referred to in this verse. He has never told anyone not to do so. In Krsna consciousness there are no sectarian walls or barriers. Rather, we are all part of Lord Caitanya's family. No bonafide acarya has ever tried to stop those under him from taking the association of exalted Vaisnavas. Such actions are not the symptoms of love and affection, but of the controlling propensity. It is the duty and God-given right of every living entity to get a Vaisnava's association. And without such association, there is no question of developing our Krsna consciousness. Srila Maharaja then quoted the following verse from Srimad Bhagavatam:

nivrtta-tarsair upagiyamanad
   bhavausadhac chrotra-mano-'bhiramat
ka uttamasloka-gunanuvadat
   puman virajyeta vina pasughnat

By hearing Hari katha from a bonafide Vaisnava, like Sukadeva Gosvami, all desires, even for mukti will disappear. Medicine in this world is all very bitter, but this is not. Nor is it sugar coated, but sweeter than nectar throughout. But those who don't want to take this medicine, of hearing and discussing Krsna katha, are butchers. If they refuse to hear this, then they are killing both themselves and others. However, although we should hear this katha, we should not hear it from false devotees.

avaisnava-mukhodgirnam
   putam hari-kathamrtam
sravanam naiva kartavyam
   sarpocchistam yatha payah

Amrta can bring even a dead body back to life. But milk touched by the lips of a serpent is quite fatal. It will bring spiritual death. Everywhere we are enjoined: hear from the topmost Vaisnava. By sinking in the current of the pure katha flowing automatically from their lotus mouths, one will be freed from anarthas forever. When Sukadeva Gosvami spoke, 88,000 sadhus went to hear from him. But they were not his disciples, since he had no initiated disciples. Nor did any of the six Gosvamis ever try to make disciples either. So we must hear from such high Vaisnavas, otherwise we will die.

Even Narada went to hear from Sukadeva Gosvami. Srila Vyasadeva wanted to clothe the naked Sukadeva Gosvami, but Sukadeva Gosvami refused. He said that he was already covered by a material mind and gross body, so what need was there for further coverings? He felt neither heat nor cold, and was always immersed in samadhi. So we must seize the chance to hear from such a great soul if the opportunity arises.

Srila Maharaja now brought the class to a close, and one of the devotees, Dhira Krsna prabhu then asked a question. Since we are trying to attain Vrajendra-Nandan Krsna, (Krsna born of Yasoda and Nanda) then why is it that the Bhagavatam starts with the invocation: om namo bhagavate vasudevaya? (Krsna born of Vasudeva and Devaki) Srila Maharaja answered that it is not good to have only the primary school class or only the M.A. class. Education must necessarily consist of many progressive steps. Similarly, the Srimad Bhagavatam also consists of many steps, and they are all required. The Srimad Bhagavatam describes many levels of devotees, such as Dhruva Maharaja whose bhakti was mixed with karma, and others whose bhakti was tinged with jnana. "om namo bhagavate vasudevaya" was the mantra chanted by Dhruva Maharaja, but not by the highest class of devotees, the gopis. Rather, they chanted:

katyayani maha maye
   maha yoginy'adhisvari
nanda gopa sutam devi
   patim me kurute namah

Here, katyayani does not refer to Durga, but Paurnamasi. The Srimad Bhagavatam recommends that we remember gopal mantra and kama gayatri. This is expressed in the rasa-pancadhyaya (the five chapters of rasa-lila). kalam vama-drsam manoharam: Krsna is playing the flute, and producing the sound klim, which is the seed of kama gayatri. The Guru who is giving diksa should also give an outline of all the gayatri mantras to the disciples. He should tell them:

1. What is the relationship of the disciple with the adhistatri Devatas (presiding Deities) of the mantras.
2. What is the meaning of the mantras.
3. prapatti - How to take eternal shelter of the adhistatri Devatas of the mantras.
4. How to practice saranagati in relationship to the adhistatri Devatas of the mantras.
5. How to practice atmanivedanam, complete surrender, to those adhistatri Devatas.

Without knowing one's atma (eternal spiritual identity), one will never be able to do atmanivedanam. One may be chanting these mantras given by guru, but without knowing this pancanga process, the mantras will never bear fruit. And unless the Guru is himself fully realized, and knows all this, he will not be able to give this process of diksa. All of this is described by Srila Jiva Gosvami in the Sandarbhas.

The Guru will not describe this to a kanistha disciple, because he will not be able to accept it. The kanistha will will think that it is enought just to distribute books, and preach. He will think that it is sufficient to chant only sixteen rounds, and he will not do any more than this. Therefore, the bonafide Acarya will only impart the specific details of this confidential knowledge to a madhyama disciple.

Govinda Bhakata prabhu then asked what the effect would be for a kanistha who chanted the gayatri mantras (from a bonafide guru) but without knowledge of the pancanga process. Srila Maharaja answered that by such a practice, a neophyte disciple would accrue sukrti, by which in a number of lifetimes, or a number of years, would bring him to the association of another, bonafide guru.

On the next day, Tuesday 27th January, Ananta Krsna prabhu, our host, took Srila Maharaja and other devotees to see the site where he is planning to build a temple. It is right next to an old Balinese temple, and there is no-one living in the area, since it is considered to be a sacred place. In the middle of the site, situated in paddy fields, was a pit about 8 feet deep, and 5 feet square. In the far corner of the pit was another, smaller hole. Different items, contained in bamboo receptacles, were at the bottom of the pit. There was a tiny Deity of Ananta Sesa, a small silver globe representing Bhumi, five kinds of metal, and some flowers, rice and fruit. Navin Prabhu descended first into the pit, and started to purify all of the different items by mantra. After this, he installed the Deity of Ananta Sesa. Then the corner stones were passed down, and placed into the smaller hole in the corner, and the sacrificial items were positioned on top. All the while, Srila Maharaja sang mantras for the ceremony, and everyone repeated them. Afterwards, he explained what the different verses meant. The whole sacrifice was performed strictly according to the vaisnava smrti, Sat Kriya Sara Dipika. A special seat was also prepared at the bottom of the pit, and all venemous creatures, malicious persons and those opposed to bhakti were invited to come and sit there. After having been offered a portion of the sacrifice, and thus becoming satisfied, they were then ordered to leave.

Srila Maharaja masterminded the whole event with intense concentration, ensuring that all procedures were carried out correctly. However, some distraction was caused by the local population of frogs, who insisted on jumping into the sacrificial pit. Navin prabhu continually tossed them out with a plastic cup, and some amusement was caused when one of the larger ones hit Brajanath prabhu, who took great fright at this.

When the sacrifice was finished, the devotees all circumambulated the pit, and performed sankirtana. A fresh coconut with straw was then offered to Srila Maharaja, who, after drinking some, offered it to Yasodananda, Gokul and Anupama's eight month old son. Yasodananda drank it with gusto, and when he'd finished, the rest of it was shared with the devotees. Before leaving, Srila Maharaja asked everyone what the new temple, for which plans have already been drawn up, should be called. Various names were suggested, but eventually Srila Maharaja decided on a name himself.

"Everywhere I have been" he said, "I have seen Ananta written everywhere. So we shall name this new temple: 'Ananta Sesa Gaudiya Math'

All the devotees cheered.

In the evening class, Srila Maharaja warmly praised the local devotees, saying that he felt as honoured there as if he were in India. He compared the high waves at the nearby coast to the waves crashing at Jagannath Puri, noting that it was the same Indian ocean. He also talked about the trip to the new temple site, saying that there was a river there, just like Kalindi. He then told us how he had been to Narottama prabhu's house that day as well, and praised his hospitality.

Maharaja went on to tell the whole story of how Sanatana and Rupa Gosvamis were able to meet Lord Caitanya by their sincere desire. The three brothers were so wealthy and powerful that they could have done anything they wanted, but only spent their time in reading and hearing Srimad Bhagavatam, and chanting harinama. They were continually searching for a bonafide guru, but did not trust anyone that they came across.

No-one can develop their Krsna consciousness without the association of exalted Vaisnavas. If a person sincerely prays from the core of their heart, saying that they know nothing, and begs Krsna to help them, then the Lord will make all arrangements. He will send an empowered guru.

In answer to the prayers of the two brothers, Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu made a plan to journey to Vrndavana by going along the Ganga up to Prayaga, and from there along the Yamuna towards Vrndavana. He could have taken a much shorter route, but His real purpose was to meet with Rupa and Sanatana. Caitanya Mahaprabhu's devotee, Nrsimhananda had visualised Him walking along a beautiful, flower carpeted road, which was lined with mango trees, flowers and interspersed with lotus filled ponds. However, when he reached Kanai Natsala in his meditation, he could not go any further. From this, he correctly foretold that Caitanya Mahaprabhu would not go any further than this place.

When Caitanya Mahaprabhu reached Rama Keli Grama, with thousands of His followers, the King of that region became fearful that this sadhu would depose him and take his kingdom. With this in mind, he sent his chief ministers, Rupa and Sanatana to investigate Caitanya Mahaprabhu.

So in this way, they were able to meet a bonafide guru, as a result of their sincere prayers. So we can only pray. No-one can judge who is a guru. But if we are sincere, Krsna will come Himself, or will send an acarya. Krsna sent Srila Prabhupada. Nobody called him. Nor did you call me, but I was inspired from within by my Gurudeva, Srila Bhaktiprajnana Kesava Maharaja, Srila Bhaktivedanta Svami Maharaja and Krsna. I was penniless, and never imagined that I would ever come to visit all these places. But Krsna has arranged this for all of you, who are sincere. Srila Gour Govinda Maharaja was also sent by Krsna, although he may not have wanted to come. But Krsna inspired him from within.

When Caitanya Mahaprabhu met Rupa Gosvami in Kasi, he told the following story. There was once a very wealthy brahmana, who died when his son was born. Therefore, he was unable to tell him where he had hidden his wealth. However, the brahmana had one very good friend, and well-wisher of the family, who knew where the wealth was. "You may think that you are very poor" He told the brahmana's son "but actually you are very wealthy. Your father's wealth is buried on one side of the house, and if you bring a spade, I will tell you where to find it. Don't dig on the west side because there is a large snake there who will swallow you. Neither should you dig on the southern side, because there are many wasps there who will kill you. You should also not dig on the Northern direction either, because a yaksa (ghost) haunts that side. But if you dig on the Eastern side, there a pot of gold is hidden." The brahmana's son followed his benefactor's directions, and found the wealth just where he had been told. So who is that well wisher? He is Guru or Krsna. The treasure of Krsna prema is already there in our heart, and can be revealed by the easy processes of hearing from the bonafide Guru and chanting. Then you will be happy for ever.

You need Guru, but he will not do everything for you. He will not put food in your mouth, you'll also have to feed yourself. Caitanya Mahaprabhu advised us that since we don't know when we're going to die, therefore we should become devotees from the age of five years old...

At this point, devotees started to scramble here and there, suddenly distracted from Srila Maharaja's class. A large toad was hopping slowly through our midst, causing a mini panic. When Srila Maharaja was told the cause of the commotion he laughed, saying:

"I thought that a tiger had jumped among you."

After the class, two of Ananta Krsna prabhu's daughters, Krsna Priya and Rasesvari performed some Balinese dances. Dressed in beautiful outfits they performed to traditional Balinese music, and we were all most impressed. At the end, Srila Maharaja congratulated them both.

On his last day in Bali, we all celebrated Srila Maharaja's Vyasapuja day. Coming downstairs at about 6:30 am, he sat on the vyasasana, and began to speak.

"What is the symptom of a bonafide disciple?"

he first asked, indicating that Urukrama prabhu should give the answer.

"He is ready to carry out any order of his Guru."

Urukrama prabhu replied.

"And if no order comes, he does nothing?"

asked Srila Maharaja.

"No,"

replied Urukrama prabhu,

"Such a first class disciple knows the heart of his guru, and fulfills his desire without even being asked."

"Very good."

Srila Maharaja replied, and, looking at Govinda Bhakata prabhu next asked:

"And second class?"

"He executes the orders of his Guru, but only when asked."

Govinda Bhakata replied.

Turning to Prema Prayojana prabhu, Srila Maharaja next asked:

"And what is third class disciple?"

Prema Prayojana prabhu replied that a third class disciple is one who does not even obey the instruction of his Guru. Srila Maharaja asked why that was, and Prema Prayojana prabhu said that it was because such a disciple had no faith. Srila Maharaja then corrected him, saying that the disciple had some faith, but not very much. If asked to bring him a glass of water, the disciple would bring up all kinds of objections. "What if I cannot find a glass? What if I cannot find some water? What if someone tries to obstruct me?" and so on and so on. When he would finally go to perform the service, as soon as he could find another devotee, he would catch him, and get him to do it instead.

And the most "bogus" disciple, Srila Maharaja said, was one who simply refused to fulfil his Guru's requests altogether.

He then mentioned "a godbrother", who had always known the heart of his Gurudeva, Srila Bhaktivedanta Prajnana Keshava Gosvami Maharaja. Simply by his guru's face, this disciple could understand what Srila Kesava Maharaja's desire was, by, for instance, bringing him water if his lips appeared dry.

Srila Maharaja then asked us what was the real meaning of guru puja. It was not, he told us, to merely give garlands, write long, poetic offerings, and to make other such external gestures. Rather, it was to know the heart of our guru, and to serve him in a very pleasing way. The real disciple knows how to fulfil his guru's innermost desire.

Srila Maharaja then talked about Krsna prema saying that it was the most valuable thing in existence, and therefore its price was also high. He gave the example that if you want to buy a valuable gem, like the Kohinoor stone in the crown of the queen of England, then it will be extremely costly. But if you want something very common, like spinach, then it will cost next to nothing. Srila Maharaja then gave the example of his own Gurudeva, who exchanged his white cloth with the saffron dress of Srila Bhaktisiddhanta Prabhupada, when some hoodlums came to kill him. Srila Keshava Maharaja had such a high and pure love for his Guru, that he had been ready lay down his life for his sake. Such a pure devotee will be ready to give his head hundreds of times. If, on behalf of his guru, he has to enter fire, then it will appear to him to be very cool. And if he has to enter the icy Himalayas instead, then he will feel it to be pleasantly warm. When Lord Indra was trying to pulverize Govardhana hill with punishing bolts of lightening, Govardhana felt it to be merely like some itching sensation, because Sri Krsna was holding him. Srila Maharaja then cited Raghunath das Gosvami as an example of the perfect devotee, telling Nabin Krishna prabhu to quote and explain the following sloka:

sunyate maha gostham
   girindraujagarayate
byaghratundayate kundam
   jivatu rahitasya me

After reciting it, Nabin Krishna prabhu explained that while Srila Rupa Gosvami was still on the earth, Raghunath das Gosvami had felt Vraja dhama, Govardhana hill and Radha Kunda to be the source of his greatest joy. However, after the disappearance of Srila Rupa Gosvami, he said, Vraja dhama now appeared to be like a great void, Govardhana hill like a huge python, and Radha Kunda to be the mouth of a tigress, waiting to devour him. Srila Rupa Gosvami had been his very life force, and now that he had disappeared, Raghunath das Gosvami no longer felt able to carry on living.

When the class was finished, Srila Maharaja took the arati tray which had been intended by us to be used to offer arati to him, and he offered all of the different articles on it to his own Gurudeva. Meanwhile, we all sang the Guru Vandana prayers to him.

When he had finished offering his puja, everyone came forward and offered him flowers, which included a number of fragrant, pink lotuses. Many devotees also put beautiful fresh flower garlands around Srila Maharaja's neck. When all the flowers had been offered, Srila Maharaja beckoned various of the local devotees to come forward, and he put his garlands on them, or gave them a lotus flower. He blessed them with sweet words, patting some of them on the heads, and joking with the young children.

Later on that morning, Srila Maharaja went to bathe in the nearby ocean. Sitting right at the edge of the waves, he allowed the devotees to smother his whole body with black sand.

"Now you have become black like Krsna!"

Rama Vijaya prabhu exclaimed.

"But,"

Srila Maharaja replied

"I want to become white just like you. Already my eyes are Western!"

When Srila Maharaja was thoroughly coated with sticky black sand, he and the other devotees waded into the sea. Splashing water all over him, they helped him to remove the covering of sand. Lalita Mohan prabhu was the first devotee to have the bright idea of diving under the water, and grasping Srila Maharaja's lotus feet. Taken by surprise, his eyes darting everywhere, Srila Maharaja searched for the culprit. As Lalita emerged from the water Srila Maharaja laughingly condemned him:

"You wicked boy!"

Then everyone else began to plunge beneath the surface of the water, eager to offer sub-aqua dandavats. However, Srila Maharaja now began to tread water, dealing hefty kicks to all who swam near him. A riot of splashing and laughter ensued. Needless to say, nobody felt aggrieved to have their heads kicked!

On the drive back to the house, Srila Maharaja told the devotees in the car:

"In the water, you had all become like young boys. When Raya Ramananda, Svarup Damodara and Caitanya Mahaprabhu would bathe together in the sea, then they would also play as we did, just like young children."

In the afternoon, Srila Maharaja gave his final farewells and blessings to all the Bali devotees. He warmly praised Ananta and Rangavati, saying that they had done so much service, that he did not think that he would ever be able to repay them. He also thanked and praised the devotees who had worked so tirelessly and endlessly in the kitchen throughout his stay.

Later that day, he flew out from Denpasar airport to his next destination, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Although I have compiled this report, I would not have been able to do so without the input and direction of my godbrothers and sisters, who are also touring with Srila Maharaja. Everything written herein has been carefully checked and double checked by them all.